adding fogging mixture

[betty boop]

just reading through the storage instructions for the 4.3MPI and Im no longer using an aerosol of fogging oil discharged into the carb rather a mixture of unleaded/ 2 stroke oil and fuel stabiliser, fed straight into the fuel filter. Im not sure that works for me 1st a suggestion for a temporary full tank with pipe outlet? seems a bit weird running the engine with such a mixture for so long would I be OK just leaving the mixture and just fogging thru the plug sockets like i did on the 3.0l ?

In a 23 l (6 U.S. gal) remote fuel tank mix:
a. 19 l (5 U.S. gal) regular unleaded 87 octane (90 RON) gasoline
b. 1.89 l (2 U.S. qts.) Premium Plus 2-Cycle TC-W3 Outboard Oil
c. 150 ml (5 ounces) Fuel System Treatment and Stabilizer or 30 ml (1 ounce) Fuel System Treatment and Stabilizer Concentrate.
2. Allow the engine to cool down.
3. Activate the Schrader valve to relieve fuel pressure.
4. Close the fuel shut-off valve, if equipped. Disconnect and plug the fuel inlet fitting if not equipped with a fuel shut-off valve.
5. Connect the remote fuel tank (with the fogging mixture) to the fuel inlet fitting.
IMPORTANT: Supply cooling water to the engine.
6. Start and operate the engine at 1300 rpm for 5 minutes.
7. After specified operating time is complete, slowly return throttle to idle rpm and shut engine off.

[Ianfs]

It makes sense, but is it in the manual that when you own the MPi that you also have a spare 23l fuel can lying around?

[betty boop]

It makes sense, but is it in the manual that when you own the MPi that you also have a spare 23l fuel can lying around?

well that would be the first point, I suppose I could go with priming a syphon tube into a bucket of mixture ............ 2nd it was commented on that 23l of fuel for 5 min run up?- I know boats use a lot but not that much and last but not least if you are running an engine with fogging mixture it will be burning off in the piston, the bore will, by my thinking, be the only exposed part along with the associated valves, coating those could be achieved by fogging through the spark plug and hand cranking the engine a few times. may be Im being a bit simple- again.

makes me wonder why Keypart sell fogging oil aerosol as a key part in the service requirements on the MPI if its not used. As you've probably guessed the boat is out of the water stripped bare for the winter waiting its service tomorrow -

[betty boop]

found this for anyone interested, on marine engine.com - seems simple enough

Instead of using an external fuel tank, some will empty the OEM filter cartridge, and will replace the fuel in the cartridge with an oil enriched mixture.
Replace the cartridge.
Then operate the engine for a short duration as you normally would, allowing this mixture into the system.
IMO, this is not fogging (although Merc calls it fogging!)

[argonaut]

I have 4.3 MPI .... and its gets fogged through the carb, until it chokes.

[Ianfs]

I have 4.3 MPI .... and its gets fogged through the carb, until it chokes.

Doesn't an MPI have injectors then?

[betty boop]

I have 4.3 MPI .... and its gets fogged through the carb, until it chokes.

'Air intake' no Carb's looking further into this and you'll find various posts on the inter web, one of which is ...........

''...........for the MPI engines like yours Merc says to run a mixture of 5 gal gas and 2 quarts of 2 stroke outboard oil from a remote tank for 10 minutes at 1300 RPM's. This will achieve full "fogging" including the injectors and whole fuel system. Your method here doesn't do anything for your injectors leaving them vulnerable over winter. Pouring it in the throttle body is not recommended on the MPI engines.''

But if its stalling the engine then surely it must be in the injectors. as mentioned in the other winterising post today Im not convinced the UK temperates warrant such drastic measures for Winter, I never have, I'd guess your not doing anything wrong but its interesting to see the difference between what people do and what Mr Merc says to do

That quote came from this youtube Vid, [youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P8Qh9Idc7c[/youtube] I don't see why he is adding oil stabiliser to have it sitting in a sump - not used for 6 months and then changed. just a waste of money.

[argonaut]

OK ... I used the word carb in the generic sense.
The hole under the air filtet cover ... i.e. air intake.
Fogging that way coats from airways right through.
Fog it until it stalls.

I was told by one merc dealer that his method is to remove air intake cover then while engine is running pull electrical connector off fuel pump.
When it starts falterring as fuel runs out spray in the fogging oil until it stalls.
Then spray outside of all electricals & moving parts with storage seal.

[BruceK]

What's this storage seal? Last year I used ACF50. Brilliant stuff but come the new season I realised it was too good. Like all oil coatings shit sticks to it. Belt dust and all. Made my engines look real grubby. Still working out how to get it off.

[argonaut]

Storage seal is a Mercruiser product in an aerosol can.


For all my electrics, linkages, plugs, sockets ... and particularly the linkage and stepper motor for my cruise control I use the marine version of ACF50

ACF50 is not specifically designed for marine use ... while Corrosion block is ... http://www.acf-50.co.uk/marine.htm