adding fogging mixture

[BruceK]

learn something new everyday here. Now to find out where to buy it.

[argonaut]

Search on-line mine came from Ireland, but you can now get it on Amazon and eBay.
Need to stand it it hot water before use.

[betty boop]

I can only say after using merc storage guard for 5 years or so from new I stopped as it made the engine look terrible. x years of storage seal left a scum over most of the block and didn't stop any rust coming through that needed to be re painted, yes you can say may be the rust would have come through earlier than at 8 years old but the cr@p that would stick to it was a nightmare to get rid of & the seal itself was a mare to wash off. it only really came off with 'Gunk' Engine cleaner but unless it all came of there was a white plume over all the surfaces. Wish Id never tried to wash i t off and more so wish it had never been there to start with.

[argonaut]

It was my Merc mechanic to told me about corrosion block ..
He uses that now instead of the Merc storage product ... he was using ACF-50 from his motorbike experience ... but moved to the marine version.

The main thing I use it for is the electrical connectors on engine, the linkages on throttle and particularly the cruise control stepper motor.
I also gave rear of all switches and loom connections at rear of dash.
I don't spray engine block so can't comment on that.

[Ianfs]

I'm with BB, I've used Mercury/Quicksilver's Corrosion Guard and its a bu**er to get off, however if shiney engines/stern drives are not your thing and protection is, it sticks like sh*t to a Teflon shovel.

Motorboat Owner Magazine tested at least a dozen Oils in one of their issues and Corrosion Block came out best in show. It is a slightly thicker version of ACF50 which they recommend for marine use. It is a water repellant and well as a corrosion guard but is also supposed to stop corrosion which is already present.

Storage Seal is Mercury/Quicksilvers Fogging Oil.

Reading this topic has brought to mind the thought of putting an oil through fuel injectors and although it is very beneficial to the tops of valves and stems I can't help but think it may not be so beneficial to the injectors. Consequently I would be inclined not to fog the upper cylinder head area , but merely to spray some fogging oil into the spark plug holes, remembering to blow it out in the spring.

If you are going to winterise, wouldn't it be better to change oil now rather than use a stabiliser then change the oil on recommissioning?

[argonaut]

I always have full annual service & winterize at same time .... so engine is full of new oil over winter.

I might do a post on my full steps for interset

[Ianfs]

If you do, call it Winterising a Mercruiser 4.3 V6 MPI and Alpha One Gen11 and put it in the Boat Maintenance and Repair Forum and I'll make it a Sticky.

[argonaut]

Right - I will do that ... with that title.

[betty boop]

I'm with BB, I've used Mercury/Quicksilver's Corrosion Guard and its a bu**er to get off, however if shiney engines/stern drives are not your thing and protection is, it sticks like sh*t to a Teflon shovel.

Motorboat Owner Magazine tested at least a dozen Oils in one of their issues and Corrosion Block came out best in show. It is a slightly thicker version of ACF50 which they recommend for marine use. It is a water repellant and well as a corrosion guard but is also supposed to stop corrosion which is already present.

Storage Seal is Mercury/Quicksilvers Fogging Oil.

Reading this topic has brought to mind the thought of putting an oil through fuel injectors and although it is very beneficial to the tops of valves and stems I can't help but think it may not be so beneficial to the injectors. Consequently I would be inclined not to fog the upper cylinder head area , but merely to spray some fogging oil into the spark plug holes, remembering to blow it out in the spring.

If you are going to winterise, wouldn't it be better to change oil now rather than use a stabiliser then change the oil on recommissioning?

Im wondering if there is a difference in product between the mix made at home and the can version from Merc. spraying one down an air intake may have a different affect to a more diluted version through a fuel line.
one of the Iboat forum write ups also mentions the possibility of air blockages in the fuel system is draining /refilling fuel filters etc. for adding the oil mix. If there are so many ifs and buts i may well be inclined not to bother with messing with things that are not broken. We are not in a severe weather environment as some of the US as we've discussed so I may just go with plugs out spray and replace. see how I feel on the day.

[betty boop]

I'm with BB, I've used Mercury/Quicksilver's Corrosion Guard and its a bu**er to get off, however if shiney engines/stern drives are not your thing and protection is, it sticks like sh*t to a Teflon shovel.

Motorboat Owner Magazine tested at least a dozen Oils in one of their issues and Corrosion Block came out best in show. It is a slightly thicker version of ACF50 which they recommend for marine use. It is a water repellant and well as a corrosion guard but is also supposed to stop corrosion which is already present.

Storage Seal is Mercury/Quicksilvers Fogging Oil.

Reading this topic has brought to mind the thought of putting an oil through fuel injectors and although it is very beneficial to the tops of valves and stems I can't help but think it may not be so beneficial to the injectors. Consequently I would be inclined not to fog the upper cylinder head area , but merely to spray some fogging oil into the spark plug holes, remembering to blow it out in the spring.

If you are going to winterise, wouldn't it be better to change oil now rather than use a stabiliser then change the oil on recommissioning?

Im wondering if there is a difference in product between the mix made at home and the can version from Merc. spraying one down an air intake may have a different affect to a more diluted version through a fuel line.
one of the Iboat forum write ups also mentions the possibility of air blockages in the fuel system is draining /refilling fuel filters etc. for adding the oil mix. If there are so many ifs and buts i may well be inclined not to bother with messing with things that are not broken. We are not in a severe weather environment as some of the US as we've discussed so I may just go with plugs out spray and replace. see how I feel on the day.