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Boat upgrade - and the petrol versus diesel question!

by BruceK » 14 Sep 2016, 08:56

It's easy to self maintain. What is the really hard bit is if you disassemble to have the gears shimmed back correctly. However that you would seldom need to do. Mostly its bellows and oil changes and in the yard there are plenty of people to help you if you reciprocate. Removing a drive is not a one man job and returning it even less so. I have never been short of friendly hands in a boatyard. We all need each other from time to time. Also join a club. You'd be amazed at the resourse and skillsets you can tap into and return.
Last edited by BruceK on 14 Sep 2016, 08:59, edited 1 time in total.
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by Ianfs » 14 Sep 2016, 08:58

As Ianh said, regular maintenence is the key, but as an engineer you'll know that things wear out and a seal wearing out on a car means oil on the drive, but obviously in a boat it could mean water in the drive.

But I don't think this is what you're asking because I feel that once you've got the drive off you will be at home with the mechanics. What you want to know is will you have to take them off regularly because they weigh between 100 and 250 kgs depending on the drive.

The manufacturers will say that a yearly inspection is necessary but in reality they could go for 2-3 yrs I'd bellows and impellers are all good and your hours are low. But I absolutely know where you are coming from as I am thinking the same thing and feeling the pains and weaknesses of getting older.
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by sprocker » 14 Sep 2016, 13:38

Got it in a nutshell Ian!

Getting it home, into the garage and onto the bench would be the difficult bit, once there I could rig up a winch and would be happy to fiddle with it.

But if I don't have to do any of that, for instance by keeping the overall servicing costs down and running outboards, I would be happy.

I think Bruce has it right, looking at 30' boats puts me right on the upper edge of outboard territory, firmly in outdrive territory, but not quite into shaft drive territory.

I need to sit down with my dearly beloved and decide realistically how much our regular cruising would extend when we upgrade. Only then will we be able to
decide whether we 'need' to go down the diesel outdrive route, or whether the outboard route would be acceptable.

Of course all of this may not be an issue if SWMBO decides that she likes the look of a Targa42............and we win the lottery this weekend. :roll:
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by BruceK » 14 Sep 2016, 14:00

I think about 70 kilos is more a realistic figure per outdrive (Volvos DP at least) . Also remember the outdrive can be split very easily with a minimum of bolts into upper and lower without worrying about gaskets. I find it much easier to separate upper and lower when removing / replacing them (including removal of props. SS props are surprisingly heavy!). They are still too heavy for fine manipulation but we aren't talking hoists etc here. A helping supporting hand is fine. Transport too and from home at these weights is a minor effort and the car boot. I really wouldn't worry too much about weight, winches or hoists. You will find you dont really need them.
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by BruceK » 14 Sep 2016, 14:08

sprocker wrote:I need to sit down with my dearly beloved and decide realistically how much our regular cruising would extend when we upgrade. Only then will we be able to
decide whether we 'need' to go down the diesel outdrive route, or whether the outboard route would be acceptable.


Do you have grand-kids?

Another thing to remember when cruising is water capacity. A 28 foot boat will weigh about 2.5 - 3 tons. It's bunkering capacity water and fuel is limited. A 34 foot boat weights 5 to 7 ton and a 40 foot 10 to 15 ton. Range and capacity to stay from port is important when cruising and living on the hook. My 34 foot has a range of 450 NM but only enough water at 600 litres to last 5 odd days with the freshwater flush. Minutiae such as these should also be pivotal to any decision.

In addition to carrying capacity you need to look at beam for tender size and placement. A 28 foot boat for cruising can make such things as a ready to go tender almost impossible meaning you have to try and inflate and deflate the damn thing in the cockpit. You simply cant cruise without a functioning tender. Too much heartache and effort there if you are constantly having to fight with a tender. You really want a quick and easy method of dropping and retrieving a tender. Even in a small swell the swim platform crashing up and down can make getting on / off and retrieving a tender a daunting prospect. Ask me. I've dropped my little outboard twice and lost my watch in the last couple of months. You have to be quick with the OB too. It will float for 5 seconds with the cowl on before gone. Carrying a tender with a cruiser with OB's is a big big big heartache!
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by sprocker » 14 Sep 2016, 14:50

BruceK wrote:Carrying a tender with a cruiser with OB's is a big big big heartache!


That is one of my current issues Bruce, using the tender on our current boat is a right royal pain in the arris, and one of the largest plus points for moving to outdrives and a full swim platform.

p.s. I have a length of cord which attaches my outboard to the boat at all times during transfer to the tender. Only ever untied when the outboard is firmly attached to the tender.
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by BruceK » 14 Sep 2016, 14:59

Sorry, I'm on a roll. One last thing about tenders. Not only are they absolutely crucial to the cruiser, they can be a lot of fun when at a destination. I absolutely adore my tender and to get one powerful enough to enjoy some water toys is a bonus. Having a cruiser and not having a ready to go tender is absolutely inconceivable.

Image

Here is a pic of Dan in his 29 odd footer.

Image

Dan could never come with us to the anchorages. Dan never anchored. Dan sold his boat after one year as a loss and bought something more appropriate. The only thing Dan had going for him is that boat was quicker than stink. Dan was scared of going quick though. The only place he could buy petrol was in his home marina. Dan didn't ever cruise very far in that boat. Dan is much happier now with his new boat but is still limited to 30 foot because it's all the berth he can get :)

Image
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by BruceK » 14 Sep 2016, 15:13

sprocker wrote:
BruceK wrote:Carrying a tender with a cruiser with OB's is a big big big heartache!


That is one of my current issues Bruce, using the tender on our current boat is a right royal pain in the arris, and one of the largest plus points for moving to outdrives and a full swim platform.

p.s. I have a length of cord which attaches my outboard to the boat at all times during transfer to the tender. Only ever untied when the outboard is firmly attached to the tender.


You posted this while I was preaching. :lol: A rope round the OB is a sensible enough idea. I dont do it though for one very good reason. When climbing onto the swim platform on a boat in a swell while carrying the OB the last thing you want is to get your foot entangled in the rope, trip and be pulled overboard with the OB and with the swim platform bouncing over your head. Much better to wave it goodbye and dive down later with the rope. As such I would strongly recommend that you stop that practise. Go on, ask me how I know..........
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by shibbs » 14 Sep 2016, 16:40

I can't help but feel a little bit sorry for Dan... :lol:
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by sprocker » 14 Sep 2016, 16:46

shibbs wrote:I can't help but feel a little bit sorry for Dan... :lol:


:lol: :lol: :lol:
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